Since the dawn of mankind, leather has been a companion on the road in many different ways. Let's take a look at its history and development, from prehistory to the present day.
Origin of leather
Primitive humankind is a good place to start.
A daily tool used in a variety of ways: tent, blanket, garment and shoe.
A problem soon arose, however, as the putrefaction of the skin made it unusable.
These humans discovered new ways of dealing with the problem.
Leaving the skins on the damp ground, with the vegetation releasing chemicals, they were naturally tanned. The skin was then spread out on the ground, rubbed with animal fat and bones, to preserve it.
Alum, a chemical compound found in water-filled rock hollows, emerged as another method of preservation. It made the skin whiter and odourless.
Smoke from wood fires is a third way of preserving leather, and was used in Central Europe. Burning bark, leaves, twigs and wood made the hide more resistant. The hide was placed over the fire, a method reminiscent of infusion. Smoking was then improved by adding birch oil.
Tanning is therefore a process that transforms animal skins into leather, making it supple, durable, water-resistant and non-rotting.
The first tanners had appeared!
It's development
Leather really evolved in Antiquity. The Greeks and Romans, who were major consumers of leather, tanned hides in large tanks containing a solution of tannins.
In Rome, urine was collected from public toilets and poured into basins, where the hides were soaked and tanned. These two civilisations contributed to the development of leather, which was used for everyday clothing and in warfare.
The manufacturing of leather was then introduced throughout Europe by invaders. Spain also popularised leather, selling it throughout the continent.
Then, in the Middle Ages, the industry took root in towns and specific areas. In particular, workshops could be found near rivers, as the material needed a lot of water.
The leather trade then spread around the world, and a wide range of trades came into being.
With the advent of production machinery and price competition, it was around the middle of the 19th century that small craft businesses gradually disappeared, with medium-sized and large companies finally appearing.
At the same time, synthetic materials such as plastic and oil contributed to the decline of the leather market. The reasons behind this? Their low production costs and the speed with which they could be made.
Around 1850, the German chemist Knapp developed chrome tanning. This technique, which required the use of mineral tannins, made it possible to speed up the tanning process, thereby making leather less expensive again. Despite this discovery, the process remained lengthy.
It was in the 20th century that the industrialisation of leather began: chemicals and better tanning equipment increased production yields.
This also led to diversity in the development of aspects, colours and textures.
New eco-friendly solutions
Leather is a sustainable material produced by the agro-industry. Basically, it is a recycled waste product. As we said earlier, this material has undergone a number of developments, including chemical processes to speed up the tanning process.
However, a great amount of water is needed in the process of transforming the hide. The hide contains 75% water before processing and requires 35 to 40 litres of water per kilogram during the tanning process.
This industry produces over 800,000 tonnes of solid waste every year, according to an estimate by the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO). It should also be noted that only 20% of the weight of the hide becomes leather.
Adopting new methods to improve the impact of the leather industry is therefore vital.
Companies operating in this sector have been quick to recognise the many challenges of eco-responsibility in the face of social change. They are reducing their environmental impact by limiting the use of harmful products, relocating production and paying particular attention to animal welfare.
Thanks to European laws governing the industry, there has been an improvement in the use of chemicals: less than 2 kilos per metre of finished leather according to a survey by the magazine ‘Ça m'intéresse’.
Another step in the right direction: over the last twenty years, companies have introduced wastewater treatment. This has created a closed loop for the water used by tanneries. Water consumption has been reduced by 60%.
Vegetable tanning, an ancestral method, has seen a resurgence in interest in recent years, as tannin is composed of plants extracted from the bark or wood of trees. The hides are hung up and left to rest in pits or vats filled with this tannin solution.
It takes on a natural colour and becomes firmer and stiffer, resisting hot water. You can see some examples in our e-shop.
As for brands, they are showing greater transparency towards consumers and promoting the lifespan of their creations.
The recent outbreak of the coronavirus has accelerated the trend towards more responsible consumption and a renewed emphasis on short distribution channels.
Today, a number of actors are advocating upcycling, a way of reducing overproduction and waste. Upcycling is a fast-growing technique that involves transforming unused and depreciated materials or finished products by giving them a new, higher-quality life. In other words, creating something new from something old. More and more people are embracing this way of recycling materials, and we encourage you to join the movement.
At Adapta, our mission is to fight waste and overproduction of materials. We recycle leather and textiles from dead stock to give them a whole new lease of life. A solution for disposing of stocks and innovative sourcing that promotes eco-design!
Leather is destined to experience further innovations and developments.
What future do you imagine for this material?
Sources :
Une Brève Histoire du Cuir | Histoire, Types, Fonctions et Alternative – EIKEN (eikenshop.com)
Le blog de la rue des artisans » Le Cuir : une histoire à écrire
La Petite Cordonnerie - L'histoire du cuir - Article de blog
Evolution du tannage au travers des civilisations, Tannage du cuir (tout-en-cuir.fr)
Le Livre Blanc de la Filière Française du Cuir | Conseil National du Cuir
Valorisation des déchets du cuir : jusqu’où peut-on aller ? - Leather Fashion Design (LFD)
Tannage et Environnement : les grandes avancées du cuir (tout-en-cuir.fr)
Enquête dans les entrailles de l'industrie du cuir ! - Ça m'intéresse (caminteresse.fr)
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